ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar): is a great treatment for hair due to the multitude benefits. Can function as a hair conditioner and help improves porosity by sealing the hair cuticle. Also, good to stimulate hair growth in some hair loss cases.

AFRICAN BLACK SOAP: Made from locally harvested African plants and barks, this gentle cleanser leaves skin soft and smooth. Also, been used for healing problem skin.

AFRO: Hairstyle that is rounded in shape and naturally curly coiled hair

ALOE: (Aloe Vera) gel has been used traditionally for the treatment of alopecia.

APL (Arm Pit Length): A guide to the length of your hair growth. It’s a reference to when the hair reaches your arm pit.

ARGAN OIL: It’s a great moisturizer and can be used to fight both dandruff and dry scalp. Very high in Vitamin E and antioxidant. The essential fatty acids in the oil are also believed to help reduce skin inflammation and prevent dryness.

B

BAA (Big Ass Afro): A large Afro which is obtained with long naturally curly or kinky hair.

BAGGY METHOD: A method that help reduce breakage, split end, and dryness. After moisturizing your hair put a plastic cap or shower cap on overnight to help your hair retain the moisture it needs for maximum growth retention

BANDANA: Square piece of cloth that is used as a head covering.

BANDING: A styling technique used to inhibit hair shrinkage and thereby display more of the hair’s actual length. Gathering the hair into one ponytail or several smaller ones, covered elastic bands ae affixed snuggly from the scalp area, one all the way down to the ends. Bands are left in for a period of time or until hair is dry.

BANTU KNOTS: Hairstyle created when the hair is parting in small to medium sections off in diamond, triangle or square shapes and twisted the sections in one directions until they wrap into a neat knot and rolled up into small buns. Also, known as Zulu knots

BANTU KNOT OUT: Hairstyle created by sectioning the hair into Bantu Knots on damp wet hair. The style is achieved after releasing the dry Bantu Knots

BC (Big Chop): This is the process of cutting off all your chemically relaxed or permed hair and leave only natural textured hair.

BKT (Brazilian Keratin Treatment): A chemical blow-out treatment used to smooth and straighten natural texture hair. (Not recommend for those who wish to retain their natural coil/curl pattern)

BNC (Braid n Curl): Hairstyle achieve by plaiting or braiding damp or moist hair and curly the ends with rollers or flexi rods. Air dry overnight or use a hair dryer. After the hair is dry the rollers are removed to reveal deep wavy and curly hair.

BOX BRAIDS: Hairstyle achieve with hair extension and braiding into small section of the hair.

BRADELOCZS: Also, seen as Braidlocs, or Braidlocks. A method of locking the hair with small braids and maintained by either latching or palm rolling (twisting). This technique does not require a Big Chop (BC)

BRAID OUT: Hairstyle achieved by braiding damp or moist hair in cornrows or single braids and after it dries the hair is unraveled to reveal a more defined curly hair.

BSL (Bra Strap Length): A guide to the length of your hair growth. It’s a reference to when the hair reaches where the bra strap is positioned on your back.

BSS (Beauty Supply Store): Store that selling hair and beauty products.

BUDS (BUDDING): First stage of dreadlocks and locking your hair, when a knot is formed as the nucleus of each lock.

BUNDLES: means that the hair (Weave) was ordered and did not come from a beauty supply store contrary to the terms “pack means that they brought their hair from the beauty supply store.

 

C

CBL (Collar Bone Length): A guide to the length of your hair growth. It’s a reference to when the hair reaches your collar bone.

CLARIFING: The process of cleaning and removing a build-up of oils, styling products, tap water minerals and/or medications from the hair.

CLIP-INS: Clip added to existing hair, a process that can usually be done at home without professional help. Hair attached this way is quick and temporary.

CLOSURE: Covers the crown and thought there is different type of closures, silk base offers more styling options, invisible part closure, monofilament closure etc.

COILS: Hairstyle achieved by taking small section of damp hair and smoothing, while rotating the sections, one by one, from root to tip.

COILY: A term of reference to texture characteristic of natural Type 4 hair.

COMB COILS: A hairstyle technique achieved by placing the tail of a rattail comb at the root of a small sections of the hair and turning it clockwise to create a coil. A great style for shorter length hair.

CONDITIONER (CONDISH): Substance which can put on your hair after you have washed it to detangle and improve the condition of the hair and make it softer. Like shampoo, it is applied to wet hair and then rinsed out after applying.

CONES (Sillicones): Ingredients in some hair care products that are not water soluble and must be washed out extremely well. If not it will cause a heavy build-up on your hair.

CORNROWS: Type of braiding style where the hair is braided very closely to the scalp in an underhand, upward motion to create a continuous raised row. The styles are endless that can be achieved with cornrow designs.

CO-WASHING: A method of washing your hair with Conditioner only. This type of washing avoids harsh results from frequent washing with shampoos that contain detergents like sodium, lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, and helps to keep natural black hair soft and manageable.

CREAMY CRACK (Relaxer): A reference to chemical relaxer.

CROCHET (BRAIDS; LOCKS,TWIST):  Also known as latch hook braids, are techniques for braiding hair that involve crocheting synthetic hair extensions to a person’s natural hair with a latch hook or crochet hook.

CURL SPONGE: A spongy product used to produce a textured curl on natural hair resulting in twist. Popular with African American men, boy and TWA haircuts.

 

D

DENMAN: A company that produces a curl defining brush that many natural haired women use.

DETANGLER: Type of hair conditioner that smooths your hair by coating it, so that the hair tightens up and smooths the scales on the outer surface of the cuticle to prevent tangles.

DETANGLING: Process in which you use a Detangler to soften and smooth the hair for manageability.

DIY (Do It Yourself):

DREADLOCKS (Dreads): A hairstyle of narrow ropelike strand of hair formed by matting or braiding.

DT (Deep Treatment): Also, known as DC (Deep Conditioning). A treatment to help add moisture, strengthening and/or damage-repair product that is applied right after Cleansing . For a better result use a heat source on your hair for an extended period.

DURAG (Do-rag): is a piece of cloth (silk like material) use to cover the top of the head to protect the hairdo ( popular with man as a fashion statement)

DUSTING: Evenly trimming ¼ inch of hair or less in which the name derived from the little hairs that looks like dust on the floor.

 

E

EO (Essential Oils): Aromatic oils extracted from flowers, grasses, fruits, leaves, roots or trees. Natural oils (Basil, Rosemary, Sage, Peppermint, Lemon, Lavender , etc. that promotes  healthy hair).

EVCO (Extra Virgin Coconut Oil): A natural conditioner that promotes hair growth, strong healthy hair, prevents dandruff, and makes the hair shiny and soft.

EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil): A natural sealant used to seal and lock in the moisture from your moisturizer, while smoothing the hair cuticle and adding shine. Some use this oil for a Pre-Shampoo Treatment (Pre-Poo).

 

 

F

FLAT TWISTS: A two-strand twisted technique comparable to Cornrows by twisting the hair flat to the scalp.

FLUFF: Finger combing your hair to obtain maximum fullness and volume for your curly hair.

FRO: Short for Afro

FROHWAK: A hairstyle where the sides of an afro are flattened (pinning) or shave to the scalp and the center is left high.

FSG (Flax Seed Gel): Homemade recipe for a styling gel made with flax seed that doesn’t weigh your hair down, dry it out, or create flakiness.

FULL WEAVE (commonly referred to as “sew in” or “weave”): A hairstyle that involves synthetic or human hair attachments which are woven into your existing hair. (braids are used as the base of the style) covering the whole surface of the scalp. This technique can also be used for a partial weave when a part is Leave out. Sew in weaves are great for all hair types.

G

GARLIC: has been used for centuries for its antiseptic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal effects. When garlic is place directly on the skin it induces an irritant reaction. It is diluted in hair products to reduce seborrheic dermatitis.

GRAPESEED: Grape seed oil extract offers a lot of benefits: it as antiseptic properties and mild astringent to help keep the scalp healthy and fight dandruff. Also to Condition and Seal moisture into the hair, non-greasy and absorbs easily in the hair and skin. It contains Vitamin E, a natural antioxidant to help heal and build tissues. It is hypoallergenic as well.

H

HAIR CYCLE: Hair growth is cyclical. The hair grows, goes through a transition stage, rests, and then fall out. Sometimes the follicle will enter a latent stage before the whole process begins again.

HAIR TYPES CLASSIFICATION:  Curl pattern. System created by Andre Walker to identify the amount of texture hair has (see end page for more details)

3a/3b/3c: Classification numbers for naturally loose curly hair.

4a/4b/4c: Classification numbers for naturally tight curly hair.

HENNA: A natural powder colorant derived from a plant, When mixed with water to make a paste. Can be used as hair dye, and strengthener. The variations of color are achieved by adding the dyes from other plants as well.

HG (Holy Grail): A statement used for products that you have tried and works perfect for your hair.

HHJ (Healthy Hair Journey): Expression used to describe the journey a woman takes to achieve healthy hair.

HIBISCUS EXTRACT: The leaves and flowers of the hibiscus are used in treatment for natural hair. Provides many benefits for hair due to its vitamin C that boost collagen also one of the most renowned herbs used for hair growth and ability to stimulate dormant follicles in bald patches. Rich in amino acids that nourish hair, strengthen roots. Adding hibiscus flowers (boil) in henna for hair more red or purple color tone definition.

HIH (HIF) (Hand IN HAIR or AFRO): This a slight bad habit to have manipulate or play with your hair.

HUMAN EXTENSION: Artificial hair integrations more commonly known as hair extension, or hair weave. Hair extension are methods

I

INDIGO: Pure Indigo hair dye will make existing hair colors darker. Very light hair can turn slightly blue indigo used solo.

J

JBCO (Jamaican Black Castor Oil): Castor oil that has been manufactured in Jamaica used to strengthen, thicken, and increase hair growth.

JOJOBA OIL: Capable of moisturizing the hair without leaving any residues. It can help hair cells to reproduce themselves at a rapid pace. Also cleanses the scalp of excess sebum build-up, the oil produced on your scalp that is often too high. Help stimulates circulation on your scalp, bringing new blood flow to your hair follicles, stimulating growth.

K

KCC (Kinky Curly Custard): A styling agent made with natural ingredients used to elongate and define naturally curly hair.

L

LACE FRONTAL: are a hairpiece which mimics a person’s hairline, covering it up from ear to ear.

LATCH HOOKING: A method used to maintain dreadlocks by incorporating the new growth into the locks to keep them neat.

LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER: is the lightest form of conditioning. For an extra layer of moisture apply the product directly after cleaning the hair and left in it until the next wash. The main purpose of a leave-in conditioner is to fortify the hair with strength and moisture and help it detangle easily. After the leave- in it is good to use the LOC method to seal the moisture in.

LEAVE OUT: the part of hair that you “leave out” while installing a weave and blend after with the weaving hair.

LINE OF DEMARCATION: This is the point between the two textures of your hair, natural texture vs relaxed hair when Transitioning. It more evident when your hair is wet. The ends of your hair will be stringy while the rest of your hair is in its natural textured state.

L.O.C. METHOD (Liquid Oil Cream): It is a 3-step technique (by Alikay Naturals Founder and CEO Rochelle Graham) for moisturizing hair. It consists of hydrating the hair with water-based product which is your liquid (water, leave-in conditioner, hydrating spray, curl refresher), sealing in the moisture with oil (coconut oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil) and then applying a cream product to close the hair cuticle which prevents moisture loss. The cream (curly cream, twist and define cream, styling cream, moisturizing creams etc.) also provides your curls with definition and hold.

LOCKS/LOCS: A hairstyle technique when small sections of hair are twisted and overtime the strands become permanently secured.

M

MAINTENANCE: The care that you are giving your natural hair while wearing protective hairstyles.

MASK (Hair mask): Is a deep moisturizing treatment for hair. Applied once every week or two weeks to add moisture to the hair.

MBL (Mid Back Length): A guide to the length of your hair growth. It’s a reference to when the hair reaches the middle of your back.

MOISTURIZER: Product that helps prevent breakage and encourage length retention.

N

NAPPYVERSARY/NATTYVERSARY: Anniversary date of when our hair became fully natural.

NEEDLE & THREAD:

NET WEAVE:

NO-POO: A hair regimen of which you do not use shampoos to cleanse your hair. Some use conditioners in place of the shampoo as known as Co-washing. Used to help hair retain moisture and softness.

O

ORS (Organic Root Stimulator): A hair care product line that is geared towards naturally restoring hair and scalp with herbal ingredients.

P

PALM ROLLING: A method used to maintain dreadlocks by helping the knots in the locks tighten and compress. This is done by grabbing a single dreadlock between the base of your palms and rubbing it back and forth vigorously.

PINEAPPLEING: A way of preparing your hair and sleeping to preserve your curls to have 2nd day hair. This is achieved by placing your hair in a high loose ponytail on top of the head and sleeping on a satin pillowcase. In the morning, the curls are intact just by letting the ponytails down and gently shaking the hair.

PIXIES: Also, known as Pixie Braids. For naturals, these braids are small individual braids all over the head without weave. Prixie braids are also braids with hair extensions (weave) that are small box braids, cut in layer

PJ (Product Junky): A person who buys a lot of different products and brands.

PLOPPING: Performed after Cleansing, Conditioning hair is loosely wrapped in a clean soft cotton material to decrease drying time, reduce frizz and enhance natural curls.

POMADE: Are designed to straighten, condition, moisturizer, and add shine to kinky hair. The Pomade can also act as a styling product to allow the hair to remain close to the scalp with some curl reduction.

PONY PUFF: A hairstyle when the hair is pulled back at the crown using a headbands and pins or scarves. The remaining hair extends freely

POO: Shampoo (Cleanser)

PREE-POO: Oils, Conditioners, etc. applied to the hair prior to shampooing to enhance moisturization and conditioning during Cleansing. You can Pre-poo the hair the night before and sleep with a plastic cap.

PROTECTIVE STYLING: A hairstyle that helps protect the end of your hair from dehydration and damage. (no combing, brushing, picking, etc.) Protect the hair against environmental exposure,

PROTEIN (HAIR PROTEIN): A protein treatment is a way to protect the hair against damage.

PROROSITY: is your hair’s ability to absorb moisture and is broken down into three categories low, normal and high which determines how easily moisture and oils pass in out of your hair.

Low: means that your hair has a hard time allowing moisture in and allowing moisture to leave. (example: hair takes a long time to dry completely, it takes a lot of water thoroughly wet the hair, hair have time to absorbing products and water. Etc.) (Try using indirect heat like a steamer, steam during shower and hooded dryer for treatment, wash hair with warm water to remove build up from the hair strands, apply product to damp hair rather than soaking wet hair, Avoid strong proteins, silicones, and heavy oils and butter

Normal: means your hair has no problems accepting and retaining moisture.

High: means that your hair has no problem allowing moisture in, however the moisture leaves almost as fast as it enters. The hair will process quickly when it comes to relaxers and hair color (Apply heavier butter and oils, Apple cider vinegar rinse, cold water rinses, proteins treatments)

Q

R

REGIMEN: A regulated plan (as of diet, haircare) designed to improve and maintain good habits for hair care.

REMY HAIR: Refers to the characteristics of the hair and the method used to manufacture the hair extension

ROLLER SET: is a hair styling method in which the hair is put into a roller while still wet. Once the hair is dried the rollers are removed and style.

ROSEMARY: used as a tonic or rinse to remove oil (seborrhea), and to add volume and sine to the hair.

 

S

SAGE: Extract is massage into the scalp to control dandruff and to treat alopecia. Sage contains vitamins A, C and B-complex and high amounts of calcium and potassium.

S&Ds (Search & Destroy): Identifying damaged ends for the purpose of trimming them. Helps improve the look and feel of the hair

SEALING: Applying a product or oil to help lock in moisture. Following cleansing or application of conditioner or cream containing water.

SECOND DAY HAIR: The state of one’s hair the day after it is cleansed, conditioned and styled.

SHEA BUTTER: Unrefined Shea has beige or yellow tinge but is never purely white extracted from the nut of the African Shea tree. Excellent emollient for dry skin condition,

SHINGLING: A form of Wash n’ Go a styling curl or get is applied section by section to clean, very wet hair. The hair can be air dry or dried with a hood dryer and fluffed for style.

SHRINKAGE: A term used to describe the reduction of the visual length of the hair when the hair is wet and re-coils.

SL Trademark (Sisterlocks ):  are tiny uniform locks that are the result of a precision parting grid , and the use a specializing  tool used to place the hair into small locks.

SLIP: A state produced by a product whereby the palms of the hands.

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate): A high volume synthetic chemical, that is drying to the hair, used in many shampoos.

STEAMER: is an effective tool that adds moisture, restores color vibrancy and strengthens the elasticity of hair. According to hairstylist, Stunning Braids author Monae Everett, the steamer uses heat and water to lift the cuticle on the hair shaft and allow conditioners and treatment to penetrate each strand.

STRETCH: Refers to the inhibition of hair shrinkage which is characteristic of tightly, coily/curly hair.

SYNTHETIC HAIR: is a material that looks like human hair but is made from fine plastic fibers..

T

TEA TREE OIL: also known as malaleuca oil is an essential oil distilled from the leaves.

TENDER-HEADED: is having a sensitive scalp that is easily irritated during hair-styling procedures.

TEXTURIZER: are chemicals products that can loosen the hair cuticle’s texture (mild form of relaxer)

THYME: used to treat dandruff and as a hair growth promoter.

TNC (Twist n Curl): A styling technique on wet and damp hair is two-strand twisted and then rolled on rods and rollers.

TOUCH UP: to put a finishing touches to the hair growth (like color the roots when it’s gray or relaxer in the case of new grow)

TRACKS: a hairpiece is interwoven or clip-in with real hair to increase volume or link,

TRACTION ALOPECIA: is a form of gradual hair loss, caused primarily by pulling force being applied to the hair. This commonly result from the sufferer frequently wearing their hair in a particularly tight ponytail, pigtails, or braids.

TRANSITIONING: This process when the hair

TWA (Teeny Weeny Afro): First step on wearing your natural hair after the BC. A small Afro about ½ inch of the hair in length.

TWIST OUT: A hairstyle made by undoing dry Two strand twist to get nicely defined curls.

TWO STRAND TWIST: A hairstyle created by twisting two sections of hair around one another to the ends. Sections of hair may range from large to small.

U

V

VIRGIN HAIR: Refers as a hair that is completely unprocessed and intact.

W

WASH & SET: is a term used commonly within the hair industry in order to describe a service performed on the hair. The service can be described simply as having your hair washed, conditioned, dried, and curled.

WNG (Wash & Go) or Wet & Go: is a method of wearing your hair after wash without manipulating with tools.

WRAPPING HAIR:  A hairstyling technique allows you to wrap the hair around your head. Also you used as wrapping the small section of hair in a Perm rods for define curls. t

Y

YAKI HAIR: It a texture of hair extension resembling relaxed Afro Caribbean hair.

 

The chart below is the most commonly used chart to help determine hair types:[3]

Type Hair Texture Hair Description
1a Straight (Fine) Very soft, shiny, hard to hold a curl, hair tends to be oily, hard to damage.
1b Straight (Medium) Has lots of body. (i.e. more volume, more full).
1c Straight (Coarse) Hard to curl (i.e. bone straight).
2a Wavy (Fine) Can accomplish various styles. Definite “S” pattern. Hair sticks close to the head.
2b Wavy (Medium) A bit resistant to styling. Hair tends to be frizzy.
2c Wavy (Coarse) Hair has thicker waves. Also resistant to styling. Hair tends to be frizzy.
3a Curly (Loose Curls) Thick & full with lots of body. Definite “S” pattern. Hair tends to be frizzy. Can have a combination texture.
3b Curly (Tight Curls) Medium amount of curl. Can have a combined texture.
3c Curly (Corkscrews) Tight curls in corkscrews. The curls can be either kinky, or very tightly curled, with lots and lots of strands densely packed together.
4a Kinky (Soft) Tightly coiled. Has a more defined curly pattern.
4b Kinky (Wiry) Tightly coiled. Less defined curly pattern. Has more of a “Z”-shaped pattern.
4c Kinky (Wiry) Tightly coiled. Almost no defined curl pattern. Has more of a “Z”-shaped pattern.[4]

 

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